Funchal is a capital and the largest city in Madeira where 37% of the island’s population lives. Don’t miss the opportunity to stroll through the streets surrounding the cathedral to discover the beauties of the city centre, then walk along the coastline to the Santiago Fortress (Portão Rua de São Tiago), built-in 1614 to protect Funchal against pirate attacks. On the seafront you can sit down for a drink and admire all the white ships, Funchal is very popular for cruise stops. There is really a lot you can do in Funchal. You could gaze at one of its many churches, visit several museums, like Cristiano Ronaldo museum, Sacred Art Museum, Madeira Story Centre. To be honest, I have not visited a single museum. To me, Funchal’s attraction lies in many other things.
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Funchal
Rua de Santa Maria street
This narrow street in downtown up until 2010 was an old rundown cobbled street like many others. Photographer José Maria Zyberchem wanted to bring this historic street back to life and make it a center of art. He started the Painted Doors Project. Many local artists started painting the old doors in the street and the result is very impressive. The street has now become an attraction in itself, many new restaurants have opened since, and even art galleries have made Rua de Santa Maria their home. You simply can’t miss it.
Teleférico Funchal-Monte
This cable car hovering over the city where the building coexists with gardens, while enjoying the amazing views of the bay of Funchal. For €11 (free for kids under 15) one way it will take you from the city to the top of the village of Monte. You can buy return ticket for €16, but I will let you know later why you shouldn't do that.
Monte Palace Madeira Gardens
The first thing you’ll see after emerging from the cable car terminal is the entrance to Monte Palace Madeira. In my opinion, this place is an absolute must visit. This garden is located on top of a beautiful hill with breathtaking views of Funchal Bay and have 70.000 m2 of an impressive collection of exotic plants and flowers. We spend half a day to explore every inch of it. For 12.50€ entrance price (free for kids under 15) you also get a free sample of a unique Madeira wine in the garden's cafe and a free tour of the Museum, but museum tour required a pre-booking.
The palace has a rich, interesting history. In the 18th century the English Consul Charles Murray, bought a property and transformed it into a beautiful estate, then called "Quinta do Prazer" (The Pleasure Estate). In 1897, Alfredo Guilherme Rodrigues acquired the forenamed estate and built a palace-like residence which was later converted into a Hotel named the "Monte Palace Hotel". In 1943 he passed away and unfortunately his family did not pursue his undertaking, consequently leading to the closing of the hotel. Since then, the place was run down and gone into disrepair, until in 1987 when the palace was sold to the entrepreneur José Manuel Rodrigues Berardo. His vision and passion for for this place created a The Monte Palace Madeira Museum & Gardens, one of the most stunning in the world.
Toboggan Run
This most popular attraction in Funchal and the reason why I recommend one way ticket for the cable car. The ride is in the Traditional Wicker Basket Sledges and dating back to the 1850s when they were used as the first means of "downhill" public transportation by the local residents who wanted to travel quickly from the village of Monte to the city of Funchal.
The ride is not cheap – it's 30€ for 2 people in one car – but the fun of the experience makes it all worth it. Just imagine, you are in the large wicker basket and sliding down the curved hill with a speed up to 30km/h, it's certainly a thrilling and unforgettable experience. The Toboggans are driven by two runners (carreiros), dressed in white and wearing the typical hats known as straw boaters. The distance is approximately 2 Kms and take about 10 minutes to complete. Expect a queue, it’s a popular attraction, we waited for about 40min.
A little tip: at the end of the run you will see a lot of taxis offer rides to the town centre for about 10€. Don't be tempted, just walk down for about 5 min, and you will see a bus stop on the right hand side. Bus stops there every 10min or so, and cost 1.50€. It takes about 5-10 min, depend on how many people jump off on the way, and drop you off right in the centre of the town by the harbour.
The Golden Gate Cafe
The Golden Gate café had been open since 1841 but in truth it's gained more popularity after appearing in the novel Eternidade, set in Madeira. Back in 1933, one of the most translated Portuguese novelists in the World, Ferreira de Castro, coined a phrase which would remain a popular one: The Corner of the World! It's referred to Golden Gate, a grand café, restaurant and historic site where the society of Funchal and visitors from all around the world gathered, but it is more than just a cafe. It is part of the town’s very heritage. Over the course of nearly two centuries it has undergone several changes and different layouts, but the wicker chairs in its outdoor area and the first floor veranda have been there for many generations. Having some coffee and cake or some lunch and dinner becomes a "must-do" when you're in Funchal. If you want to sit on the veranda and watch a world go by, you need to order a meal. Prices above the average, but you can, like we did, share a pasta with local garlic bread called
Bolo do Caco if you try to watch your budget. We were lucky enough to watch a local street artist whilst I was sipping a wine.
Shopping
Funchal is not only place for history and art lovers, but also a shopaholic dream. You will easily find a variety of shops where you can buy traditional Portuguese embroidery, farmer's markets, special Madeiran jewellery, artisan and souvenir shops with a traditional tourist junk. Don't forget to bring your wallet, because it's certain that you will be spending some money in Funchal. This is some shops I thought was mentioning:
- UauCacau shop and cafe. The best place to feed your inner-chocoholic. The chocolate fillings very varied and have flavors of products of Madeira origin, such as Madeira wine, passion fruit, Poncha, banana, Pitanga, cane honey and many more. Great choice, interesting flavors and lovely packaging make a great presents from Madeira.
- Livraria Esperança book shop. The largest bookstore in the country and one of the largest bookstores in the world with more than 94,000 different books.
- Charlotte's CM Studio is a jewellery shop. The owner creates all of the bracelets, necklaces and glass beads by herself, that's why each piece of her collection is unique. The jewellery, in my opinion, is the best souvenir to bring. Every time you put on a unique piece, it's not only will look individual and special, but also will remind you of the wonderful place and time you spend there.
- Mercados dos Lavradores, the Farmers Market, is a fruit, vegetable, flower and fish market opened since 1940. Thanks to island's exceptionally favorable weather conditions and fertile soil Madeira is known for its delicious and exotic fruits. Anona or Custard Apple, pitanga, guava, tabaibo or prickly pear is just some of them. Madeira’s passion fruit deserves special attention as you can find many varieties: purple passion fruit, banana passion fruit, passion fruit pineapple, lemon passion fruit etc. There is another fruit in Madeira that due to its exotic appearance, popular among the visitors and it is called delicious fruit (Monstera Deliciosa), or how about cactus figs. I finish with the most symbolic fruit of Madeira, the Madeiran banana, small but tasty. Farmers Market not cheap as it's very touristy, but you can sample many of the fruits all in one place.
Never be afraid to enter to any shops as owners are friendly people welcoming you to visit even if you do not wish to buy anything.
Cabo Girão
Cabo Girão is a sea cliff and in 2012 a “Skywalk” was installed on this 580-metre-high cliff on the island's south coast. The platform overhangs the edge of the cliff and has glass floor tiles that give you a almost clear view to the ocean far below and if you want to tickle your nerves, you can do it absolutely free. It may seem scary, but in reality, it’s perfectly safe- it really is an unforgettable experience.
The cable car at Rancho, about 4 km ride from Cabo Girão viewpoint is open since August 2003 and cost 5€ return. It started as transportation for farmers who had a hard time when it came to bringing their crops all the way up to the top. It's a very nice ride with a great view all around.
Santana & Rocha do Navio Cable Car
Santana is a municipality on the north coast of Madeira and famous for its traditional stone houses with steep, triangular-shaped thatched roofs called Casas Típicas de Santana. A few of them restored and turned to museum that you can see what living in the house like this would be. Many of the houses have been converted into various souvenir shops. It's only a few houses to see and the town itself is really small, there are a few cafes in town, but it's all about it. I wouldn't recommend to book an organized trip here, but if you rented a car and have a spare few hours, you should walk to the Cable Car Station. You can drive right to the station, but I highly recommend to walk and see the real Casas Típicas with a cute little garden where people still live. It is about 40 min walk through the village, past the beautiful farm fields and hills. The cable car ride cost 5€ return and, probably, the most beautiful ride we had. There are a couple of awesome waterfalls you can see from a distance, whichever way you go. At the bottom of the cable car there is a short walk along the pebble beach, past the vegetable fields. Just lovely.
Cascata Garganta Funda
Have a ride to Ponta do Pargo, follow the signposts to the waterfall or Cascata Garganta Funda. Park your car, it's free, and go for a walk on a small trail that will take you to the magnificent Garganta Funda waterfall. When you arrive at the viewpoint, you will be dazzled by what you will see – a waterfall almost falling directly into the ocean over approximately 140 metres.
Miradouro dos Balcões
The journey to this glorious destination is unforgettable. Drive through the mountainous forest with orchids, Madeira mahogany, Madeira blueberries, but also some exotic trees. This short 1.5 km walk begins in Ribeiro Frio to the Balcões viewpoint, from where you can enjoy superb views. This is also a paradise for lovers of bird watching because it's a great place to spot various species of Madeiran birds. On the way there, or back, you can stop in the little cafe and enjoy a glass of Madeira wine with a stunning view of the typical greenery of Madeira’s forest.
Levada walks
Madeira Island is full of fascinating nature trails next to the canals known as “levadas”. This is one of those walks that fill our eyes with emerald green breathtaking landscapes, some of the levada walks has the waterfall and the lagoons to enjoy. There are various types: some of the easier ones are ideal for beginners, or for those who just want to walk and enjoy a fascinating nature and others require a higher skill level. In all, there are more than 2,000 km to explore, but Levada do Caldeirao Verde one of the most popular treks by tourists because of the cascade waterfall at the end. Choose any because they are all so beautiful, and the air so fresh and clean.
Câmara de Lobos
Situated 5 km from Funchal, this traditional fishing village very picturesque with the photogenic historic centre and colourful fishing boat.
Câmara de Lobos is also the home of Poncha, a mixture of lemon juice, honey and sugarcane spirit, available at the many local taverns. Stroll around, then sit in the local cafe and watch the world go by. I think this is one of the most beautiful towns in the island, no wonder it's often seen in postcards from Madeira.
Boat trip
Boat tours are an excellent way to get to know the island from a different perspective. In Funchal Marina you will find a wide range of boats ready to take you on an unforgettable trip, alternatively, you can book your trip in any travel agents around the island. Our choice was a Dolphin & Whale watching trip. Dolphins are a lot easier to find than whales, but it isn't by far impossible to see both of them. Sometimes you can see turtles and if you’re lucky, the curious Monk Seal (Lobo Marinho) is frequently spotted in its natural habitat. We were lucky enough to see dolphins, but unfortunately no whales, even so, this was a one of the best half a day. Especially for kids, it's an unforgettable experience.
EIRA DO SERRADO VIEWPOINT &
Valley of the Nuns
Located at an elevation of 1,095 m, it offers a stunning panoramic view over the parish of Curral das Freiras. There is a large free car near Eira do Serrado Hotel & Spa. At first, I recommend to walk down to the Valley of the Nuns, remote village in a deep mountain valley, but unfortunately we didn't make all the way down. Walk itself was very lovely, the views are beautiful. After the walk we had a short stop in the The Eira do Serrado Hotel's cafe for a drink before we made our way to the viewpoint, which only about 10 min walk from the hotel and car park.
Porto Moniz
This charming little town famous for its natural complex of lava pools that are popular with locals and tourists alike. Porto Moniz is a small town, but you could stroll in the harbour and visit the fort. Most of the tourists visit Porto Moniz as a part of organized trips, but you only will have a short stop for photos and no time to swim. I recommend to drive there or take a bus.
The seawater lava pools naturally filled and provide safe and dramatic place to swim. They were formed by lava frozen in the ocean, which created something like reservoirs with water constantly renewing thanks to the waves. Сreated by nature and developed by humans, provide an excellent and unique relaxation area. For a 1.50€ entrance fee, you can admire not only their natural beauty and uniqueness, but also the excellent quality of services: showers, toilets, changing rooms, storage rooms and it's open all year around.
Piscinas Naturais do Aquário natural pools are free, but there are no services here. They are located half a kilometer from the Fortress of Saint João and have the concrete paths, bridges, stairs have been laid and even if you won't swim, it's just fun to walk around here.
São Vicente Caves
7 min drive from Porto Moniz and you are in Sao Vicente, small town popular for its caves. The São Vicente Caves were formed 890 thousand years ago by a volcanic eruption and discovered by a local farmer in 1885. Caves were opened to the public on October 1st, 1996 and were the first volcanic caves to be opened to the public in Portugal. Entrance fee €8 for adults and €6 for kids includes visiting caves and The Volcanism Center.
The Volcanic Center we were clearly and in detail told and shown how the earth's core is arranged, what volcanoes are, and, finally, how the Madeira Islands were formed. Educational and interesting enough with a 3D video, especially for children. The Levada Fajã do Rodrigues, starts in São Vicente and has a small waterfall and short but dark tunnels. Great for a bit of adventure, as this walk is relatively short and easy. The town itself is small, but has a very good choice of restaurants and a couple of shops. Parking is free, so a short stop for a little bite was must.
We only spent a week in Madeira and were unable to see or visit even half of what Madeira has to offer. For many, Madeira is a destination for retirees or at least older people. Of course, if you like noisy bars and clubs, not many here, or maybe I just did not come across many of them. There are lots of bars, but they are much quieter. If we talk about entertainment for tourists, then there is a lot here, and there is also something for adrenaline lovers - Jeep safaris, side-car motorcycle tours, Canyoning of varying difficulty. Here something to do for everyone, including wine and food lovers, but you must not forget that this is still a paradise for nature lovers. I recommend visiting this beautiful island at least once, you will not be disappointed.
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